smoke problem

[Pontiac1976]

Well it could be. When the motor is that old and has a few miles on it has been sitting around for a spells on and off the gaskets get old dry in time.
Some other causes could be bolts have backed out a little or gasket shrink.
most common spots valve covers, intake manifold, timming cover, fuel pump or plates behind it, oil pan, front and back end seals too, rear main seal motor has to be taken out to fixes that one, tranny pan.
Now is it oil from a out side-leak on the motor or is it coming from the tail pipes. That means carb not problem or oil leaking in cylinders from oil rings or valves seals.
Onces you find out where it coming from or not pin point it and try to fix it. There a few post on here about the carb & valves.

[74chevy]

it is coming out the tail pipes

[74chevy]

hey i all so need to know if my motoer is a 305 or a 350 the guy i bought it from said that it could have ether one i think i know where it is i think it is on the back of the block

[74chevy]

hey there is a fuel line going to my fuel pump and i do not know why and it has a bolt on the other end i do not think it is so supposed to be like this the line is to the left

[bigtendude]

That looks like a steering box to me.....

[Pontiac1976]

I guess the last question with the pic . Answer that steel line that has the rubber hose ( that in the middle of the pic, is the return line from the charcoal can) your fuel pump likely has three tubes coming out of it ). Now the two the others.
here this can help you if you want to look up you block casting #
www.mortec.com

www.mortec.com/wmotor.htmthis should start you of for this question :

hey i all so need to know if my motor is a 305 or a 350 the guy i bought it from said that it could have ether one i think i know where it is i think it is on the back of the block

oh other tell tales is the timming cover if it has center timming tab.
the other question i try to get something typed out later to day starting see double.

[74chevy]

what is the best way to get to the casting number i think i am going to change the valves
sills and i need to know what motor i have and i have to take the mooter apart anyways so i need to know what to take off

[Pontiac1976]

This will be one of the casting #'s
CASTING#.....SIZE...YEAR...MAIN CAP BOLTS....NOTES
355909..........305.....76-79.......2
or
361979...........305....77-79.......2 or 4, some Canadian assembled heavy duty blocks have 4-bolt main caps

460776..........305...78-79.......2
460777..........305...78-79.......2
460778..........305...78-79.......2 or 4, some Canadian assembled heavy duty truck blocks have 4-bolt main caps

4715111........305.....80...........2
10046164.. .305.....86...........2
Now 350

140029.....350...80-84...2
366245.....350...78-79...4...Bowtie
366286...................4...Bowtie, siamesed,
straight nodular iron main
caps, 2-piece seal, 4.00-4.150"
bores, 2.45" main journals
366298...................4...Bowtie, Aluminum, billet main caps, 3.398" bore with sleeves, two piece rear main seal.
366299...................4...Bowtie, Aluminum, nodular
iron splayed caps, wet sump,
4.00" bore
460703.....350.....78....4
3970010....350...69-80...2 or 4 ( hard to find the 4 bolt ones) you have pop of the oil pan to see.
3970014....350...70-76...2 or 4
10036033...350...........4...Goodwrench crate motor, 2-piece rear
seal, "Hecho en Mexico"

THIS IS FROM mortec.

We get a number of inquiries regarding casting numbers, engine build dates and engine assembly/suffix codes. Many folks want to know where to look for these Chevy engine casting numbers and codes on blocks and cylinder heads so we decided to put these pages with photos together to help you find them. Most are easy to find once you know where to look. There may be a great deal of grease and crud covering them that will have to be cleaned before you can read them. Also trying to read them while the motor is in a vehicle can also be harder, especially the block casting numbers and casting dates at the rear of the block. Hang in there, if you try, you can use a mirror and a little patience for the hard to see and reach areas. Some folks also use a piece of aluminum foil to make a rubbing of the numbers and dates on the rear ledge of the block. Others have used children's Playdoh to make an impression of the numbers.
Keep in mind that some of the numbers or letters can be difficult to read. A "6" can look like an "8" or an "8" can look like a "3". A upper case letter "I" can look like the numeral "1" and visa versa. Some times part of the number may be missing. A "T" can have the top horizontal part of the letter missing making it look like the upper case letter "I" or a lower case letter "l".

Remember that you have to look at ALL of the numbers, features and parts characteristics to figure out what it is you are looking at. A number of the casting dates refer only to the year of the decade so you will have to see which other features the part has to determine which decade it was made in. Some casting dates do have the year and the decade indicated, making it easier.

We are always looking for new Chevy engine castings numbers. If you have some information you want to share with us and our visitors, send us an email with the data. Right now we are limiting our listings to Chevy V-8 blocks, cranks and heads. As new castings are released on late models keep your eyes open for the new numbers. Thanks!


The diagram above shows where each of the casting identifiers is located on the engine. (1) shows the location of the HEAD CASTING NUMBERS and the HEAD CASTING DATE located under the valve covers, in the rocker arm valley. (2) shows the position of the BLOCK CASTING DATE on the rear ledge of the block near the bell housing mounting surface. If you have an early big block or a late model smallblock, the BLOCK CASTING DATE may be on the passenger side of the engine block, (see 2A), instead of the rear ledge of the block. Some smallblock blocks may also have the BLOCK CASTING DATE on the driver's side of the block. (3) indicates the position of the BLOCK CASTING NUMBER. Later blocks may also have the size of the engine displacement in liters listed at (3). (4) indicates the position of the ENGINE ASSEMBLY DATE/SUFFIX CODE and partial VIN code information on the front of the block. (5) on the rear flange of the block, on the drivers side near the oil filter pad, is an alternate block location for some VIN codes. (6) indicates the sides of the block where some blocks may have the size of the motor indicated in cubic inches or in liters. The last three numbers of the block casting number may also be repeated in this location.

www.mortec.com/diagram1.gif
The diagram above shows where each of the casting identifiers is located on the engine. (1) shows the location of the HEAD CASTING NUMBERS and the HEAD CASTING DATE located under the valve covers, in the rocker arm valley. (2) shows the position of the BLOCK CASTING DATE on the rear ledge of the block near the bell housing mounting surface. If you have an early big block or a late model smallblock, the BLOCK CASTING DATE may be on the passenger side of the engine block, (see 2A), instead of the rear ledge of the block. Some smallblock blocks may also have the BLOCK CASTING DATE on the driver's side of the block. (3) indicates the position of the BLOCK CASTING NUMBER. Later blocks may also have the size of the engine displacement in liters listed at (3). (4) indicates the position of the ENGINE ASSEMBLY DATE/SUFFIX CODE and partial VIN code information on the front of the block. (5) on the rear flange of the block, on the drivers side near the oil filter pad, is an alternate block location for some VIN codes. (6) indicates the sides of the block where some blocks may have the size of the motor indicated in cubic inches or in liters. The last three numbers of the block casting number may also be repeated in this location.

There are three block casting number types to look for: the block CASTING NUMBER, the block CASTING DATE and the ENGINE ASSEMBLY DATE/SUFFIX CODE.


BLOCK CASTING NUMBER
The block casting number on smallblock and big block Chevy V-8 motors is located on a ledge found at the rear of the block, most often on the driver's side. This ledge is below the deck of the block and the ledge forms the mating surface between the block and the transmission bellhousing. Some of the later model blocks have the casting number on the passenger side of this ledge. The number itself can have 6, 7 or 8 numeral digits. They might look like this "361959" or "3970010" or "14015445". The block casting numbers do not have any letters in them. There are sometimes individual letters found on blocks like "GM" or "CFD" for the Central Foundry Division, but they are not part of the block casting number. Also some of the later blocks have the size of the motor shown in liters. You may see a "5.0" (305) or "5.7" (350) cast on the rear ledge of a smallblock or a "7.4" on the side of a big block 454. On the side of some later blocks the last three digits of the block casting number are cast into the block, but these are difficult to see when the engine is in a vehicle.
PIC"S how it looks
www.mortec.com/cast2.gif

www.mortec.com/cast17.gif

www.mortec.com/cast14.gif

www.mortec.com/cast13.gif

[Pontiac1976]

A puff of white smoke out of pipes or pipe. After that the truck runs fine, with no smoke at all. Try the valves seals
You will need an adapter to go in the spark plug hole to hold the valves closed with air pressure. Like tool KD No.901 14mm adapter, then get a ball valve or fuel shutoff small enough to thread into it and then a quick coupler to thread into that so you can plug it into your air compressor hose. Then you will need the lever to use to push down the valve springs while the air is holding the valves closed.Like tool K-D No. 912 is the one . Take off both rocker arms for the cylinder you are working on, put the adapter in the plug hole, apply pressure and use the lever to push the springs down so you can remove the retainer halves. If valve moves down when you push on spring you may have to just give a little (little) tap on the spring washer to loosen them. Make sure you remove all of the old seal pieces before putting new umbrella style seals in. Oh one of the book I listed on the site would help you too.

A big puff of black smoke comes out of the exhaust and then it doesn't do it anymore. Black puff of smoke that would indicate that your engine is starting rich.. if running carb, check for stuck choke or over-rich settings.

Blue smoke puff is an oil burning condition. Indicated poor oil control either in worn valve guides valves seals or piston rings .

White smoke after at running temp was hit and trail white smoke. Indication of blown head gaskets .

Well if it more of a blue then yes the vales seal would be time to change, if the still the untouched 78 factory one in there. Most like leaking a little by now. ( or the valves guides need re-done at a shop or buy new heads)
Not to hard to do valves seals if you know how to do it & have tools to help.

I think I listed all now it's up to you to find out what the area to work on. I hope this helps you and others. Bowtie guy or 19_Chevelle_69 can help you out better if you still need info or help even a few other's on this board.

[74chevy]

hey i am going to replace the valve seals and it is about 30 to 40 degees i wanted to know if it would be ok to take my motoer apart would it be safe or not

[Pontiac1976]

Yes but do you have one of these books to help you. Link:> bowtieguy.proboards.com/thread/844/books-least
need compressed air and tool for the head if your going to do it on the motor or are you going to take the heads off to do the work or maybe send them to a shop.
Do you have - weather there do you have Preston in the block and rad
before you start do you have a good idea what you need tools parts.

[BowtieGuy]

To clarify some here, white smoke coming out the tail pipes could also mean the carb is dumping too much fuel in the engine, black smoke is usually a sign of a stopped up air filter. If the smoke comes out while the truck is parked try to smell it. Gas smell means too rich, oil smell means its burning oil. Usually if just the valve seals are bad it will smoke when first starting the engine when the engine is not warmed up (first thing in the morning starting up or been sitting for a good while) if it continues to smoke after warmed up the its burning oil, either rings worn or valve guides.

[74chevy]

yea it smokes all the time i think it is my valve covers i think thay are leaking

[74chevy]

hey about my valve covers can you over tighten them i think thay mignt be messed up or something i think i mignt have over tighten them

[BowtieGuy]

Valve cover gaskets can be overtightened but this will not make your truck smoke out of the tail pipes. It will smoke off the exhaust manifolds/headers, if the oil leaks from the valve covers and drops on them, causing smoke to come from under the hood but not out the end of the pipes.