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Post by Nathan on Jul 10, 2004 19:15:50 GMT -5
I've got a few new things for y'all. Lately my truck will not stay running in the morning. My figuring would be the temp switch for the comp isnt telling it that it is cold and to inject more gasoline than air, am I figuring right? Well today I decided to actually get into the engine compartment and have a look around back there. Foremost I took off the dist. cap and the rotor looks horrible. There is a turquoise dust/residue inside the cap and on all the contacts. I suppose I will need a few new tune up parts. I noticed some wires that were terribly reconnected, and redid 1 for now; a pink one on the left plug of the coil that goes to the distributor. Next I noticed, there is some kind of sensor or switch that is threaded into a 90 deg. fitting that is coming from the block, or so it looks like. It's dark and cloudy here today so I cant see real well. But ... what is it?? Isnt it an oil pressure switch of some kind? I know there is another oil press. switch on the side of the block with a green wire, obviously running the gauge since the gauge does have a reading. Could this be causing the truck to run rough or not at all in the morning? Then I noticed there are two wires that have been cut; a brown one coming out of the tranny/rear engine area, and a red one. I also noticed there is a brown wire coming off a plug that comes out of the firewall. Any ideas what it does? Man I really cant wait to get a Haynes for this truck! :braindead: . I have pictures of all this mysterious stuff if the pics are needed for clarification. I hate all this rewiring junk. It looks like they slapped in a whole new harness. I know it has a different computer since it says remanufactured on top. By the way, does anyone know how the computer is supposed to mount inside the dash?? Mine is just sitting on top of all the duct work, and the redneck I am just taped it into a cavity for now. It's kind of odd that I never get a check engine light even though so many wires are going to nowhere.. Any help would be more than gladly appreciated.
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Post by Nathan on Jul 11, 2004 0:34:41 GMT -5
Foremost, I must appologize for how sloppy this post was. I am trying to kill many birds with one stone during my days off. I was informed that it was an oil pressure switch back there, which enabled the fuel pump. Well, I just discovered ALL of the old wiring for the fuel system was bypassed, and they installed a relay on the firewall to run that 1 pump in the 1 tank I still have, and the relay is directly plugged into the fuse panel. I found that the brown wire I was curious about actually ran the auxillary fuel pump. The red and brown back behind the engine are actually orange and gray, and they go to the oil pressure switch that has been cut out. Disregard all of that I guess. No need for the sensor to be plugged in if it dont do anything. I think my running problem is a bad rotor and cap, and probably wires, and also it needs the right injector cleaned. Can anyone recommend a gas treatment that works well on injectors? My right injector looks a little sloppier than the other. Seems to have a drip to it. By the way .. how do you get the rotor off?? All my cars' rotors just pull off by hand, but this one feels stuck on there. Is it just a matter of prying it off with a screwdriver? I figured I'd wait and ask before breaking it for once. But onto my main concern, how can I get my fuel gauge working again. I plugged in the tank switching valve underneath, and when I turn the key on and poke the pink wire for the gas gauge, the gauge goes down past 1/4 tank, and goes down slowly after that. I know I have barely less than full, so that cant be right. I also try the wire to the left of that one, color undistinguishable, and it does the same thing. Once I remove the test light, it goes back up beyond full. Any ideas?? Thanks, and my appologies again for both the length and confusion of this post.
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Post by BowtieGuy on Jul 11, 2004 18:42:09 GMT -5
Your checking the system at the switch at the dash, you need to check it at the valve under the truck. Find the hot wire that is supposed to run to the valve, not switch, and tie it into the wire running to the tank you are running off of. What is happening right now when you put the test light to it is your grounding out the gauge, this is what makes it move to the empty marks. As for the injector I would recomend letting a shop that does injection system cleaning do it. My grandmother had hers done and it made a big difference. We put about 5 cans of the gas additive before with not much help. The distibutor cap has 4 phillips head screw type latches around it. If you insert a screwdriver in and push down then turn you will see an arm swing out from underneath the distributor. After all 4 is done it should just lift off.
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Post by Autodisco on Jul 11, 2004 21:23:12 GMT -5
Hi,
If your truck has some running problems when its cold, I would guess that being a fuel injection system, and presuming that this is the problem, then the sensors that would be down would be either the coolant temperature sensor or the air intake temperature sensor. The resistance readings for these two sensors can be found in the Haynes manual I believe. Test the resistance, if it is too high then the sensor has gone down, and will need replacing.
Hope this helps,
Stan.
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Post by Nathan on Jul 11, 2004 23:18:14 GMT -5
Yeah, I just finished doing the distributor cap. Mine only has 2 philips/ 7/32 screws. My philips wouldnt work in them so I switched to a 7/32 socket and that worked a lot better. However, it started lightening all over, so I have not tested it yet. As far as my running problem, I agree that it has to be one of those sensors starting to go. This morning it started and ran good oddly enough. Wher is the intake temp. sensor in this thing? As far as the gas gauge, I have finally determined it has to be a bad sending unit. I finally found the right wires, the pink runs the gauge, and the pink w/black comes from the sending unit. The pump already has power going in from the relay they installed. So when I directly wire everything bypassing all switches and plugs, it sits at 3/8 tank. I took it and put some gas in it, and it didnt budge. So all in all, it must be the sender. When grounded, it reads exactly empty. When disconnected, it reads it's farthest right reading possible. Thanks for the info you guys.
Nathan
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