73gmc
Fresh Meat
Posts: 8
|
Post by 73gmc on Nov 19, 2005 15:48:26 GMT -5
I have noticed with the colder temps outside that my truck isn't pushing much heat at all. There doesn't seem to be any leaks and the water pump was replaced not to long ago as well as a new thermostat. The thermostat is rated for 160F, should I be changing it to a 190F as I was told by a friend. I pulled the return line off the heater core to see if fluid came out of the core and there was so I suspect it isn't plugged.
|
|
|
Post by Pontiac1976 on Nov 19, 2005 20:19:46 GMT -5
yes that would be a thing to do in the colder months (190). But if the truck has been sitting out side parked for any time. You might want to check the heater core, to make sure the mices have not made any nest in the heater box, blocking off the heater rad ,that one way you will lose heat to.
|
|
73gmc
Fresh Meat
Posts: 8
|
Post by 73gmc on Nov 19, 2005 23:33:01 GMT -5
No, it has been driven regularly for the last year or 2 , but i did check to see if water was getting through the heater core by disconnecting the return line to see if water came out and it did so water must be getting in to right ? I am gonna put a 190 in tommorrow and see what happens.
|
|
|
Post by 19_Chevelle_69 on Nov 20, 2005 12:56:49 GMT -5
A 160 thermostat will DEFINATELY seem cold in the truck. The standard temp thermostat is a 195*, which is what you should be running.
160* is actually too cold for any time. Even though a colder engine has the potential to make more power (but only with the apropriate cam/head/carb combination), your engine suffers extra wear on the bores and rings by not getting up to operating temp.
The magic number for a performance designed engine is 180* that will give you a balance of power and longevity.
As a preventive procedure, remove both hoses from the heater core, run a garden hose first into one pipe, then the other. Repeat alternately until the water flow is fast and only clean water comes out. This is a great way to ensure you are getting the most flow out of the core.
Generally the cores on these trucks have HUGE tubes in them, and don't usually plug up.
|
|
73gmc
Fresh Meat
Posts: 8
|
Post by 73gmc on Nov 28, 2005 16:12:08 GMT -5
Well I did put a 195 in the truck this time, and I do think it works better, but now my temp gauge is maxed out on high, it read high before but now it is maxed out. This is another problem though. The truck didn't have a temp sending unit before and I put one in myself, ever since the temp is reading high. I don't know if it is reading correctly or not. I thought i read somewhere that if it is located on the head between the spark plugs and fairly close to the exhaust header, then it might read high. But I didn't think it would read that high. I've though of moving it but haven't yet. Water pump was replaced last year about the same time. The rad isn't new but isn't leaking either. Heater core isn't new either. Also isn't leaking. I plan to just flush the system and check for good flow through the rad and heater core but haven't had a chance to do it yet, as I have to do it when the Landlord's aren't home cause they don't like the idea of working on your own vehicle, but they have the money and stupidity to pay someone else to do it.
|
|
|
Post by 19_Chevelle_69 on Nov 28, 2005 17:32:07 GMT -5
Well, I'd try a new sensor.
Make sure you get one that matches the cluster.
There are sensors for idiot lights, and there are sensors for gauges. It has to be the correct one for your application to work properly.
A temp sensor in the head is the most common place for them. Both the 305 in my truck and the 350 in the Chevelle have their sensors in the heads.
Other than that, if all else fails, the gauge itself could have gone bad.
|
|