Post by Pontiac1976 on Nov 26, 2014 6:10:46 GMT -5
This is the inner tube, it had a foam seal at bottom help keep the weather out. It pretty much fell apart when I touched it. So used 1-1/4"(32mm) wide 1/4"(6mm) thick closed cell foam tape one sided stick ( stop draft window/door seal by TAGO ) weatherproof and durable #113-273 / TA78626. You can use something like this. I got this at Home Depot.
After cleaning sandblasting painting the bottom with high gloss black enamel paint.
This is the only part that at the bottom out side the rest just needs light oil or rust check or something the same.
Post by Pontiac1976 on Dec 7, 2014 12:38:44 GMT -5
This is the Shift lever Housing cleaned repainted.
This pic you can see the small spring left in(Do not take out unless broken very week). It sits below the shift lever on the tip.
This is the lower Steering firewall seal. It was just a little bit hard on the out side & on the outside edges. To see if I could bring it back a little I used glass bead that was really used all most a power to blast it. It will clean most of the rubber off, (You should see if it is usable after, then up to you at this point). Now I did not clean off all the factory under coating. I'm thinking of just re coating over the same area like factory did.
Torx bit #20, Torx bit #30, Small flat blade screwdriver, Med flat blade screwdriver, Phillips screwdriver #1, Phillips screwdriver #2, Phillips screwdriver #3, Special tools that most may not have will have to buy. Inverted Torx bit #E8, Pivot pin remover. Special tools that most may not have will have to buy or you can make them yourself. Steering wheel puller, Lock plate remover/installer. Ratchet, 13/16 socket, 7mm socket, Small picks, 1/4 socket, Needle nose pliers, Small chisel, Small brass hammer. ** Red Locktite thread locker, Wheel bearing grease.
Post by Pontiac1976 on Jan 11, 2015 12:38:44 GMT -5
Your going to have to start by. Remove the horn button. Remove the horn button contact wire, by pushing in (down on it) hold it turn it counter clockwise. Remove the steering shaft center safety clip. Remove the horn button contact ring be very Careful not break the spacer ring some time the three bolt screws might snap it when loosening them. (spray with PB lube ) Remove the steering shaft nut. Make sure the wheels are straight, Now it’ time to use the Steering wheel puller / or make your own tool . I have made my own and bought my own tool too. Mark the Shaft and Center of the Wheel to line up the mark when you put it back on. Remove the lock plate dust cover. The Plastic cover has three slots pop lightly pry up. Now it time to get or make your Lock plate remover/installer tool. Install lock plate tool, depress the lock plate just enough to expose the locking ring. Pry the lock ring using a small flat blade screwdriver and a small pick to remove the locking ring. And slide it up the shaft till it’s off. Remove the turn signal canceling cam by lifting straight up on it. Remove upper steering column shaft bearing spring same way. Remove the turn signal switch actuating arm. (One Phillip-head screw) Remove the three screws securing the turn signal switch to the upper bowl assembly. Remove hazard warning switch button (One Phillip-head screw) do not looses the spring. Remove Wiper arm leaver(shaft) just grab it & push in on it hold it turn it. Remove the plastic lower column cover 4 Phillips screws #2, once the screws are loose oh first work the rubber ring up the shaft. Back cover just lift it straight up toward you. Remove the metal lower steering column cover. Locate & unplug the turn signal switch and wiper switch electrical connectors. Pull the turn signal switch and wiring towards the back of the truck as far as it will go. Removing the lower steering column support bracket is NOT required. Let the switch hang free. Going back to the upper Column. As the cam assembly removed you now can see the three screws securing the turn signal switch to the upper bowl assembly. Remove the lock cylinder retaining screw using #20 Torx bit. Time to pull the lock cylinder “straight out”. Remove the three screws securing the lock cylinder upper bowl assembly using a #30 Torx bit. Pull the upper bowl assembly back while pulling on the wiper switch then the wiring up carefully upwards (there is some play in it) and let hang free. Remove the tilt lever it unscrews counter clock wise, use the flat spot for the wrench to break the shaft loose then you should be able finger turn it. (use small Needle nose pliers) Remove the dimmer switch actuator rod and sector cover housing. Remove the screw securing the shaft lock bolt spring using a 1/4 socket. Unhook the spring from the shaft lock bolt, then remove the spring. Remove the bolt. Pay particularly close attention to the lock bolt, spring, ignition rack & sector positions for Re-assembly. Remove the key-in ignition cylinder the warning buzzer switch and spring. Push the tilt wheel spring retainer in with a #3 Phillips screwdriver or large flat blade screwdriver & a turn counter clockwise & remove spring, retainer & spring guide. Remove the column housing by removing the two pivot pins. Time for the Specialty tool by using the Pivot Pin Removal Tool. Remove the pins from BOTH sides. Remove the upper steering shaft bearing retainer. Remove the upper steering shaft bearing race. Reinstall the tilt lever & pull toward you to unlock the housing assembly from the shoe assembly and pull the housing back and away. Remove the tilt lever again. The four screws that causing the problem are now accessible. Remove each screw one at a time, clean the threads, apply a few drop of Red Locktite thread locker and reinstall and tighten. Now this time & point you have a assortment of parts to reinstall. It is a good idea to clean them up before reassembly. Clean the parts brake-clean (or parts wash bin if you have it) and a rag. It is a good idea to coat the parts and surfaces with bearing grease for lubrication and rust barrier the parts that will not stay that will hold then in place. Install the ignition rack, (making sure that you have attached it back to the ignition switch actuator rod) reinstall the tilt lever and work the column housing back into place. Line up the pivot pin holes and reinsert the pins by using a small brass hammer to tap then in place. The dimmer switch may need realigning with actuating rod. Reinstall the tilt wheel spring guide, spring & retainer using your #3 Phillips screwdriver or large flat blade screwdriver and depress & turn clockwise. Reinstall the ignition switch sector, lock plate bolt & spring. Reinstall the upper shaft bearing race and retainer. Reinstall the dimmer switch actuator rod cover housing making sure the rod and actuator are aligned. Reinstall the upper column housing and tighten the three screws. Insert the ignition lock cylinder and confirm that it is installed & working properly before proceeding. If everything works fine, install the retaining screw. Using a small pick or screwdriver, locate the little plastic tab on the bottom of the lock cylinder and push it upward to install the key-in ignition warning buzzer switch and spring.
Install the turn signal switch, switch actuator & hazard button. Install the cruise switch lever. Reinstall turn signal switch actuating arm and upper steering column shaft bearing spring. Reinstall turn signal canceling cam. Reinstall the lock plate now in reverse order as you took it apart. Install the dust cover by snapping back in place. Reinstalling the steering wheel, nut, ring and button. Reconnect the turn signal switch and wiper switch electrical connectors. Reinstall the metal lower steering column cover. Reinstall the plastic lower column cover.
Post by Pontiac1976 on Jan 18, 2015 8:32:59 GMT -5
Here how to make your own Lock Plate Tool
You need two 3” bolts. I be leave there 5/16 bolts cores tread And you need 4 nuts to fit those bolts. A piece of flat steel 1/8” thick, 1-1/4” wide, 3-11/16” long. Drill 9/16” center for the shaft bolt go throw, and you can use the steering wheel nut to depress. Drill two holes for the bolts to go throw each side of the center hole so to press on the plate. You set the bolt up to just put the flat plate 3 to 4 treads on over the center shaft, But put the wheel back on Be care full not to strip the shaft. Once the nut good then tighten it should start to press the Lock plate down. So just tighten it enough to pop the c clip off then loosen the center nut. Go slow if you have to you can adjust the bolts if you have to so you do not strip center nut.
This Is going a little slower then I thought waiting on some parts as this is a broken 87 tilt column as it out of a stolen truck keep busy working on what ready or the plan of the day. As I try set up in info for people to.
77 1/2 ton Heavy Half chev 454,350TH,3.07rear driven 6 YR now changed back to 85 monte carlo SS 305 Motor as of 2004, june,30 inter changed to 84 GMC style, flatbed with a 98 van bumper.
Post by Pontiac1976 on May 9, 2020 19:47:59 GMT -5
MY OPINION ON FLEXIBLE COUPLING REBUILDING KITS
I am not in favor of the “do-it yourself” flexible coupling rebuild kits that are available on the aftermarket. Your original OEM flex coupling was manufactured with extremely secure hot riveted stop pins and special design shoulder bolts to attach the flex coupling assembly to the steering column flange. I cannot speak for the types of parts that may be included in a “do-it yourself” kit but I have seen enough of them to be concerned.
If you disconnect your original flexible coupling and carefully inspect it, you will note that there are shoulders on the bolts that attach to the steering column flange (see drawing on next page.) Those special shoulder bolts are designed to bottom against the steering column flange. This results in a connection that tightens metal-to-metal when you torque the nut and it also sandwiches the rubber disc in place with a controlled squeeze.
The problem I am having is that I have seen some kits that contain just plain bolts to attach the flexible coupling to the steering column flange. From an engineering standpoint, you should NEVER make a bolted connection through rubber. A bolted connection depends on bolt stretch and the tension created when you torque the nut. This causes compression in the joint and friction against the nut prevents it from loosening. When you bolt metal parts properly together, the metal parts are unyielding and tension in the bolt keeps the joint secure for life.
This is what happens when you try to make a bolted joint through rubber. First of all, you never build adequate tension in the bolt. Even if you double nut, use a lock washer, use a special torque prevailing nut, or blue Loctite® the nut to the bolt, you still never will have correct tension in the bolted connection. Eventually all tension in the bolt will be lost since the rubber will relax with time. A loose bolt will eventually begin to rock and come apart even though the nut hasn’t moved on the bolt threads. Remember, you are steering your car through this critical connection!
If you must use one of those kits that come with plain bolts, please use the shoulder bolts from your original flexible coupling regardless as to how rusty they might be.
One last difference, the original equipment flexible coupling and the authorized service flexible coupling will have a method of conducting electrical grounding current from one side to the other so that you can operate your horn. Note, original flexible coupling assemblies manufactured before 1971 had a brass grounding strap or a small wire that encircled the center of the flexible coupling disc and electrically connected adjacent quadrants of the assembly. After 1970, a metal mesh screen was molded into the face of the rubber coupling disc to provide a ground path from steering column shaft to the gear input shaft. By the way, the metal mesh screen does not provide any additional strength to the rubber disc. Also, watch your fingers those wire mesh ends on the edge of the coupling disc can be quite sharp.
A Word about the Author I am a retired steering system engineer from Delphi Saginaw Steering Systems, (formerly Saginaw Steering Gear Division, GMC). Back in the early 1970s I was responsible for the flex coupling assembly and the power steering hoses for the C3 Corvette and other General Motors passenger cars and trucks. So I have very first hand knowledge about these products. I also worked closely with other Saginaw engineers that had responsibility for the power and manual steering gears, the control valve and adapters, the power steering pumps, as well as the tilt, T&T, and standard (non-adjustable) steering columns. I still keep in contact with Saginaw engineers (both active and retired) who helped me with the various C3 Corvette as well as the GM A & F-car steering papers that are posted on Terry Rudy’s Corvettefaq.com websit.